Episode 1204: American Samoa's Resilient Coral Reefs

Far out in the South Pacific, there’s a tropical island paradise. Known as the “Islands of Sacred Earth,” the territory of American Samoa is one of the United States’ most remote outposts. Its waters are home to stunningly beautiful coral reefs, including two of the world’s oldest and largest coral colonies on record. Many of these sites are protected inside America’s only National Marine Sanctuary and National Park south of the equator.

Coral reefs around the world are in serious decline, but American Samoa’s reefs have so far been relatively resilient in the face of local and global stressors. To better understand and protect the corals, the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa’s science team is setting up a multi-faceted monitoring program to document the reefs’ condition and any changes that might occur over time.

Together with their partners from the Coral Reef Advisory Group and the National Park of American Samoa, the scientists are trying to figure out what makes the territory’s coral reefs more resilient than others, and how lessons learned locally might help corals that are in decline elsewhere.

Experts

Meet the experts featured in this episode.

Episode Photos

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American Samoa is a tropical island paradise. Scenic Pola Island in the National Park of American Samoa is one of the iconic landmarks on Tutuila.

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The National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa's science team gears up for a dive in the pristine Fagatele Bay.

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Beautiful corals in Fagatele Bay. The reefs in American Samoa have so far been more resilient to local and global stressors than corals elsewhere around the world.

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Research Scientist Hanae Spathias conducts a coral survey inside the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa.

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Fagatele Bay was the first area to be protected as part of the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa. This naturally-protected bay was formed by a collapsed volcanic crater.

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Research Coordinator Val Brown takes hundreds of photos of the reef in Fagatele Bay that she later stitches together into a large photomosaic.

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The National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa is the largest and most remote sanctuary in the National Marine Sanctuary system. It also supports the most diverse marine life.

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Research Coordinator Val Brown taking photos of the reef. These images are later analyzed to document species composition and to determine if changes are occurring over time.

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There are more than 250 known species of coral in American Samoa.

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The film crew with the staff of the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa. Fa'afetai (thank you) for your hospitality and for inviting our team to your island paradise!

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The Coral Reef Advisory Group (CRAG) team with the mayor of Aūa. CRAG is a collaboration of seven local agencies which coordinates American Samoa’s coral reef management efforts.

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The CRAG team preparing to conduct coral reef monitoring in the waters of Aūa Village.

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One of the CRAG scientists taking notes along the coral reef transect in the village of Aūa.

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In 1917, Alfred Mayor from the Carnegie Institute began research on the Aūa coral reef transect, making it the oldest continuously monitored transect of its kind in the world.

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Research Coordinator Val Brown takes photos of Big Momma, one of the largest coral heads in the world. Big Momma is located off Ta‘ū island inside the National Marine Sanctuary.

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Videographer David Diez films Big Momma, which is about 500 years old, 23 feet tall and 153 feet around.

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Big Momma isn't the only large coral in the "Valley of the Giants." In 2019 a team of scientists documented several hundred corals that are over six feet in diameter.

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During this research experts documented a coral inside the National Park of American Samoa that is even larger than Big Momma. This coral is about 26 feet tall and 226 feet around!

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Located about 70 miles east of Tutuila, the Manu‘a Islands (Ta‘ū, Ofu, and Olosega) are home to spectacular coral reefs.

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The research team and film crew after diving in the "Valley of the Giants."

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The ruggedly beautiful beach in Ofu, inside the National Park of American Samoa.

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NPS Dive Officer Bert Fuiava snorkels in the shallow Ofu pools. This lagoon provides scientists with a living laboratory to study the impacts of rising sea temperatures on corals.

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NOAA's Cape Matatula Atmospheric Baseline Observatory is one of four remote U.S. observatories measuring different chemical compounds in the atmosphere.

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NOAA Corps Officer Lt.j.g. Tim Holland runs the daily operations at the observatory, which includes taking weekly CO₂ measurements for the Carbon Cycle Group.

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The NOAA Ocean Acidification Program teamed up with the Sanctuary and other agencies and installed a monitoring buoy in Fagatele Bay. It measures pH levels in the water.

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The Changing Seas team had the honor of interviewing several High Talking Chiefs while in the territory, including HTC Fuiava Avaloa (seated) and HTC Atuatasi Lelei Peau.

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A taro plantation on ‘Aunu‘u island. Taro is a local crop that is threatened by rising sea levels.

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One of many scenic vistas on Tutuila. Daily life in American Samoa still involves many cultural traditions, including fa’asamoa, the Samoan way of life.

Special Thanks:

Sadie's Hotels
P.O. Box 3222
96799 Pago Pago
American Samoa
(684) 633-5900

Image Credits

Changing Seas would like to thank the following individuals and institutions who kindly allowed their footage, images and other media to be used in this production:

American Samoa Coral Reef Advisory Group

American Samoa Environmental Protection Agency

Carnegie Institution for Science

Joseph Strauch

Oceanwide Science Institute/
NOAA Fisheries

Scripps Institution of Oceanography
UC San Diego

Val Brown/
National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa

Richard Vevers /The Ocean Agency

Special Thanks:

Alaese Tauofe

Anke Kügler

Brian Caldwell

Eric Brown

Lauao P Too

Liu Taiula

Marc Lammers

Nerelle Que

Russ Cox

Sabrina Woofter

Sapo Tuiolosega-Scanlan

Sarah Marquis

Tiara Drabble

Tom Drabble

Va'amua Henry Sesepasara

Wendy Wood-Derrer

Web Extras

American Samoa's Valley of the Giants

American Samoa's Ofu Pools

National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa: Fagatele Bay

Visit the Ofu Pools of American Samoa in 360 Degrees

Take a dip in the beautiful Ofu Pools, a tropical coral paradise found in America’s only national park south of the equator. Located in the heart of the South Pacific, the National Park of American Samoa is home to some 950 reef fish and 250 coral species.